Holland 2001
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We hadn't, in fact, planned to spend a holiday in Holland this year. The idea to to visit the land of windmills, canals and dikes was formed in mid-summer after I'd been sorting through a suitcase of old papers from my late parents. Coming across three letters and several family photos sent to my mother by a Dutch lady whose name was Rina, I recalled hearing, as a six year old, about a family in Holland with whom my father had been billeted during the war.
The letters and photos had been sent between December 1945 and June 1946; by which time my father had been posted to India. After reading these letters, which were very thoughtful, kind and caring, I felt I wanted to personally thank Rina for her kindness to both my parents more than 55 years ago. Impossible? Well, maybe - but worth a try. One of the letters gave the family address at that time, and on the back of a photo featuring the whole family Rina had written their names and ages. Rina was then 22; the second eldest of four children - still living at home with both parents - and teaching a class of 47(!) seven-year-olds.
Our seven nights stay in Holland began with the car ferry from Harwich to the Hook of Holland, from where we drove straight to Heeze - the small town situated south-east of Eindhoven - where Rina had lived.
We hadn't made any hotel reservations so we just booked in at the first hotel we came to on the main street. Then we walked to the main square where there was an indexed street map of the town. Unfortunately the map made no mention of "Stationstraat". Continuing our evening walk, a few minutes later I spotted a sign saying "Oude Stationstraat". That explained it - the street was now called 'Old' Stationstreet. Now I wanted to find number 21. It didn't exist. Only number 25, situated beside the level crossing, looked similar to the house on one of the photos. A pity, but not surprising - after all, the town must have undergone many changes over the last 55 years. Back at the hotel we looked through their telephone book but there was nothing for 'Heuijerjans'.
Next morning, the hotel receptionist rang some similar sounding names but without success. My original intention had been to inquire at the local town hall which is what we did next. I produced Rina's letters and told the receptionist why I was looking for her. She got me to write my name on a piece of paper and then went to an office. After 10 minutes she returned - saying could I wait another five minutes as a colleague was checking out a possibility. Within five minutes she came back saying would we go through to the office as she had Rina, who is now a nun, on the telephone! Rina had realised immediately who I was and had, against all the rules, persuaded the town hall staff to allow us into their 'inner sanctum' to speak with her. Well, we were both extremely excited just to be talking to each other on the phone.
She was sorry that she was unable to invite us to visit her that same day but invited us for lunch the next day. Less than 24 hours after arriving in the country we'd made contact! I think the office staff were both quite excited at this 'find' too and, after giving us details of the route to the convent, one checked up on past house addresses in Heeze and found that number 25 was formerly 21, so I had actually found the original house.
Rina now lives with two other nun-sisters in a town called Weert situated about 16 miles from Heeze so, armed with the route, we set off on a 'dry run'. Good thing we did because the directions were a bit misleading; telling us to come off the A2 road at a junction which didn't exist.. After some searching we we found the street and the convent. Now we felt confident of finding it next day.
(From Weert we drove south to Maastricht. Parking by the riverside of the Maas, we walked to the town centre which has - like many Dutch towns, both large and small - an impressively large main square dominated by an enormous town hall. Not far from the centre is a pedestrian/cycle bridge - a section of which can be raised to allow higher vessels through, while still allowing bikes and people to cross it. We watched as it was raised by about five feet to let a very large barge through. Outside the town there's lots of factories and industry. Well worth a visit to the centre though, and the river is impressively wide).
Arriving punctually at 12 noon the next day, we were met on the drive by all three sisters and I presented Rina with a small flower arrangement. The convent is actually a quite normal detached house - the only difference being that the garage has been converted to a chapel.
We soon discovered that we were also invited to afternoon tea at the home of Rina's brother Matthew - he's 78 and also remembers my father. There were several stories about my dad. Apparently, he was billeted at their home while based in Heeze, there were no actual dates but it was over several weeks or months. He only slept at the house - his meals were, presumably, provided at the mess. He was sent away quite often on 'duties' but always returned to the house afterwards - and he always brought back a little present for them. (And he was the only British soldier to stay with them). Rina recalls that he was there around her 21st birthday and told her that in England she would get the key to the door but, as he couldn't give her that, he gave her a box of chocolates instead. These, she recalled, were the first chocolates she had ever been given and somehow she was persuaded to give them to her brothers and sister. (She had two brothers and one sister - her youngest brother and her sister are no longer alive). When my father finally left the Heeze family home for the last time Rina says there were tears in all their eyes - dad's too..
Rina's father was the local stationmaster - their home being situated right next to the railway line and level crossing (and there's an old windmill still looking down onto the house from the opposite side of the line, too).
With Rina directing me, we set off in my car for the visit to the house of her brother Matthieu where we also met his wife Leny and their daughter Lia. Matthieu has lots of stories to tell from the war time. Leni didn't speak much English but understood quite a lot. Lia spoke English very well and had made up a gift parcel for us of typical Dutch non-perishable snacks, a very thoughtful and kind gesture; she also got out her camera to 'capture' the 'invaders'.
Returning to the convent there was yet another tea table laid out in readiness (we hardly had time for talking with all the food they kept plying us with - maybe we looked like starving refugees - though somehow I doubt it). At 19.30 we took our leave but not before Rina presented us each with a small, beautifully wrapped present. When arriving we had shyly shaken hands, when leaving it was a hug and a kiss on the cheek.
That really was a most memorable day.
Our holiday also revealed what a lovely country Holland is. Altogether we spent 3 nights in Heeze - an attractive town of about 4.500 people; it even boasts it's own moated castle - standing in acres of countryside and situated about half a mile off the main street. The town straddles a long main street which runs through middle of it. On the outskirts are vast nature-protected areas - wonderful walking country, I imagine.
After Heeze we then spent two nights each in Middelburg and Delft - touring the surrounding countryside and towns of both.
Middelburg is a bustling tourist centre which lies in the heart of the west coast dikes area and, as with all the cities and towns we visited, it has, yet again, an impressive town hall and church in the main square. Canals too, are a quintessential feature of the Dutch landscape - designed to add a new dimension - especially to the driving experience of foreign motorists. The network of canals seems to turn the roads into a complex maze designed to let no-one out. Or so it seemed. But they add greatly to the character and ambiance of towns and countryside alike. And mention has to be made of the bells. All over Holland they ring out almost continually from town halls and churches - with excellent sound. And all these attributes were displayed in Middelburg.
An evening trip in the car gave us a glimpse of the area and some of it's small towns. Veere is worth a mention with its lakeside situation and small boat harbour where we enjoyed an al fresco late-evening meal. With the setting sun and an extended recital of the church bells, the day drew to a perfect conclusion.
Saturday was the best weather-day of the holiday and most of it was spent at Neeltje Jans - in the heart of the dikelands. This was the area that suffered the loss of more than 1800 lives in 1953 when high seas breached the dams. Rebuilding started soon after with a project which would take 25 years and would reclaim much precious land. Work continued beyond those 25 years, and today there's a big tourist attraction at Neeltje Jans with working models showing how the land was reclaimed. For children there are all sorts of water experiences to try for themselves, and one can also view the actual dams from inside and on top. The dams comprise a series of 'gates' which are raised when the tide goes out to drain out excess from the great lakes behind. Altogether a brilliant 'must see'.
We moved north to Delft for our last two nights. Another large rectangular square with town hall and a church situated at opposite ends. Shops and cafes covered the rest, and a tourist office (VVV) where we booked a hotel. On the tourist map the hotel looked to be no more than 3 minutes drive away. In spite of that we must have spent an hour, driving in pouring rain, trying to find it. It was situated on what looked like a main road alongside the river. Trouble was there was no road access from either end and we just kept getting diverted further and further away from it. Eventually, after much hysterical laughter, we found it - by turning into a narrow, insignificant looking street at whose entrance was a road hump. This, seemingly was the only access. We very much enjoyed Delft though, despite this distraction the town famous for its tiles is well worth seeing.
We set off for Gouda after breakfast on our last full day of the holiday. Its ancient cheese-weighing house lies at one end of the big square, with decorative town hall centre stage. Just off the far end of the square is a church famous for its stained glass windows; another 'must see'.
On then to Oudewater - where they did nasty things to witches in olden times. There's still a witches weighing house in the town - if their weight was a certain amount they were set free, otherwise - curtains! It was closed on Mondays so further exploration that little pleasure was denied us. A compact little town, on a much smaller scale than Gouda but well worth visiting.
Our next target was Kattvijke, a seaside town to the north of Den Haag. The drive there was a fairly long one but it was worth it to see the seemingly endless sandy beach. A couple of miles north is Nordvijke where Anne-Marie, as a 16 year old, once spent a holiday. There's a well known (except to me) hotel there. It was the largest in town on Anne-Marie's first visit, and she reckons it's quadrupled in size since then - as has the rest of the resort. So, a little nostalgia was indulged in.
Departing Delft next day, we were drawn to take a look at a town called Monster - but we didn't see any, so continued to the Hook of Holland.
We arrived with four hours to spare before the boat departure time. After looking around and enjoying a last delicious pancake outside in hot sunshine we went to start the car and - nothing happened. It refused to start. With help we called out the AA equivalent who arrived half an hour later and got it started. There was no guarantee the problem wouldn't happen again, but we got to the boat terminal (all of 250 metres away!) and since then it's started ok. Maybe the Dutch windmill wizard didn't want us to leave..
The flat land of canals and windmills - and bells really was a delight and I certainly intend to go there again. After all, I now have a friend in Holland.
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Rina
1946
Rina
2001
Matthieu 2001